AGRA

imageYou may have been wondering about signage in India. Not as amusing as China, but funny non-the-less.

imageThese signs are at the entrance of the Taj Mahal.

imageEverywhere we go we must line up in separate lines.  It is not okay to touch the other gender in public.  Long story here, but I’ll save it for later.

imageThis is the reason everyone comes to Agra if not India.

 

imageThis famous monument to love is as timeless as it is beautiful. So, here’s the story.  Shah Jahan was a Hindu prince who took over from his father at a time when there was great unrest between Hindus and Muslims.  In order to forge a truce he married a Muslim princess who became the love of his life.  They were never apart and she bore him 14 children, only 6 of whom made it to adulthood.  Anyway, during the birth of the 14th child the princess died and this sent Shah Jahan into a deep depression.  His minions finally took him from the spot where she died but he really was never the same again. On her deathbed he promised to build her a garden to last for all eternity and thus began the 22 year build of the “Taj.”  During this time the third son killed his two brothers and usurped the crown from his father exiling him to Agra Fort where the Shah was con fined to a small set of rooms.  He could only watch out the windows as the Taj was built.  At last it was done and he buried his wife there and shortly died himself at age 72 and was interred next to her.

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imageThese are the eternally fresh and beautiful flowers the Shah gathered for his beloved.  The two that are inlaid use a forgotten art which came from Italy.  Semi-precious jewels are used and shine in the sun.

imageThis is the courtyard outside the Shah’s rooms where he was confined for the 8 years before he died.

imageThis is his set of rooms.  They are beautiful although I guess Jahan was pining for his wife.

imageThis is the view he had from his window.  So this sad story ended and the monument to everlasting love still draws admirers from around the globe.

 

imageThis is Agra Fort, where Shah Jahan spent his final years and where he lived with his princess.

imageThis is the entrance in the inner courtyard.  This fort was never breached and in this level they kept lions and tigers.

 

imageThis is the palace the Shah had built for his new bride. It is in the Muslim style, to help her feel at home.

imageThe Hindu temple where the Shah worshiped his gods.

imageThe grand presentation hall.  It would be imposing if you came to call!

We all commented that in a country with arranged marriages it seems there are a lot of stories about true love.  This is the ultimate tribute to that.

 

SOME THINGS I’VE FORGOTTEN UP TO NOW

imageGoing through one of the million toll booths on the “freeway” we passed this van.  Who knew?

 

imageAt the Amber Fort these guys sat and watched us.  You can just tell they’re thinking ‘crazy tourists!’

 

imageThe garden inside the Amber Fort.  These were in the part where the harem was.  My finger on the top of the picture is over the harem.

 

imageThe pool at Naharaja Fort, but it was way too cold to go swimming.

 

image Camels shared the freeway with us as did ox carts, tractors, tuk-tuks,  scooters, bicycles, people walking, motorcycles, rickshaws, trucks  large and small, cars, buses, and the occasional cow, dog, goat, donkey, and elephant.  Traffic rules are merely suggestions.  We have driven down the side against oncoming traffic, ignored red lights, passed on hills and curves, gone the wrong way on one way streets, anything you can imagine.  So far we’re safe and have only slightly grazed an old guy on a bike pulling a trailer.

 

image Mark likes to take pictures of street scenes. Here is one of them.

 

image Anyone who knows me knows that I am petrified of snakes.  Rounding a corner one day I stepped into this scene.  I busted through a line of tourists 3 people deep to get away before the snake charmer let one of these Cobras loose.

 

 

image We went to a shop where they made carpets and other textiles.  This is a man block printing a piece of cotton.  He’s on his third pass with about four more to go.

 

imageThis man is shaving the knots off the wrong side of a rug.  This co-op sends woven pieces to the main building for finishing.  After this step he uses a flame thrower on it to burn off any remaining knots and to make sure no polyester was used in the carpet.  Yes we bought one.  Well, three.

imageThis is Mr. Smarmy who gave us the talk on types of wool and carpet quality.  He plied us with rum, chai, and soda beforehand.  Smooth!

 

image We stopped at a small school somewhere in the dust to give these children notebooks and pencils and scare the bejezeesus out of them.  The little girl in front with the blue scarf just started crying uncontrollably.  We big, loud, ungainly white people were just too much for them.

 

 

image imageFinally,  we stopped at this largest step well in India.  Built centuries ago, it is still occasionally in use.  The water rises and falls with the rainy season.  They used to let tourists go down to the bottom which is 90 feet deep until some woman fell and sued.  Bet she was American!  Anyway, it was a really amazing sight.

 

I can’t figure out how India seems to be stuck in the Middle Ages but has electricity.  Roads are mostly dirt over cracked cement, plumbing is really sketchy, toilets are pretty much a gamble, there are animals roaming all over the streets, most people are thin, there is garbage everywhere, and yet this is a really beautiful and mesmerizing country.  You judge from the pictures.  Next stop, Agra and the Taj Mahal.

RANTHAMBHORE TIGER RESERVE

 

 

Years ago when we were at Emerald Isle and we were on the way to the pool I saw a real scene that did not compute in my brain.  I thought I saw a tiger and an eagle but what it really was was a dead Great Dane and a buzzard.  I have been redeemed on this trip, however!

 

imageHere is our hotel, Najarha Fort.  It was pretty special.  This guy below started playing his instrument at 5 in the morning.  There was another little boy who would dance for us, too.

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The first night we had a bbq outside.  It was cold!

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The next day we rode into the National Park which surrounds this fort, called Ranthambhore Fort.  It is where the maharajah staged his tiger hunts.

 

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We saw deer.

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We saw monkeys.

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We saw wild boar.

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And at last we saw this absolutely beautiful female tiger!

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Toward the end of the trip we sat by a lake to watch the wildlife and there was an eagle, so tigers and eagles!

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This was our transport.  One in front of us had a flat tire and we watched them roll the van up on a pile of rocks to change the tire.  It was scary!  At the end we all agreed that this was a high point of our trip.  Tigers, tigers, Royal Bengal Tigers.  Only 2500 left in the world and we saw one!

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JAIPUR

imageThis is the Amber Fort which was begun in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh.  It has walls that ramble all over the hills which surround it and is very formidable.  We got to ride elephants up the hill to get to it.  One of our number, Stephanie, was a little scared to get on the elephant because she is afraid of heights.  The reason we all had a good laugh over this is because she is a flight instructor!  She’s the one on the left below.  Ashley is another of our traveling companions.

 

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imageThe interiors of the fort are as incredible as the outside.  And for Betsy, the ceilings are just exceptional!

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imageJai Singh, a descendant of the guy who built the fort was very interested in time and astrology.  In 1728  he built this, the largest sun dial in the world.  It is accurate to 2 seconds.  The grounds of the site also house many other astrological features that he used to study the skies.  Below is device by which he could track the signs of the zodiac.

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imageWe went to a co-op which makes all sorts of handicrafts.  We watched a rug being made and we all had fun shopping for carpets, clothing, and other trinkets.

 

imageThis is the Jaipur City Palace Museum.  It is full of textiles, weapons, the reception rooms of the Maharaja and other things detailing life in the long ago.

 

imageHere is the famous Palace of the Winds, which is just a facade used by Indian woman to watch the street scenes below.  They would hide behind the screen-like Windows to watch parades of departing or returning warriors and other pageants.

From Jaipur we travel to Ranthambhore National Park to see tigers, hopefully!

INDIA–DELHI

image Leaving 5:30 am January 19th.

 

.image LAX

Our plane left at 1:10 January 19th and arrived in New Delhi January 21st at 3:00am.imageLONG flight.

 

image Day 1  tuk-tuk ride through an open air market.  Our driver kept telling us how much work it was.  Time to lose weight!

 

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The power grid in Delhi.  A little scary!

 

image This is the oldest mosque in India.

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The Red Fort as seen from the mosque.  We couldn’t go in because of a national holiday on the 26th.  Lots of police, guns, barricades.  Glad we’ll be getting out of town!

 

 

 

imageThe tomb of Humayan

 

 

 

imageBeautiful Windows

 

image The outside of the tomb

 

image In the footsteps of Gandhi.imageWhere Gandhi was shot.

 

 

imageThe great man

 

image His bedroomimage All his worldly possessions

 

image The Parlement building

 

image India Arch

 

image The Indian flag, duh.

 

image A Sikh mosque.  Money collected goes to feed the homeless and hungry.  They make food for 100,000 people a week.

image The naan factory.

 

image Stirring up rice.

 

image Making naan.

 

This whole experience was very humbling.  So far India is not what I imagined.  It is loud, colorful, active, bustling, dirty, exciting, and beautiful.  More to come!