GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

imageWe have come back to the United States and are visiting Glacier National Park.  So far, this has been Mark’s fav and we have seen some stunning vistas.  After we went to Alaska all he wanted to do was build a glacier in our back yard.  The man is possessed!

SO, first, some history.  Glacier was the 4th National Park.  It was commissioned in 1910 and at that time there were 150 glaciers.  Today there are 25 and by 2030 there will be none.  I am very depressed about this because the whole ecosystem is dependent firstly on the glaciers and then on each facet that makes up the diverse community of plant and wild life.

But before I go off on how badly we have conserved the planet, let’s tour Glacier!imageHere is Old 98, the million dollar bus.  These guys were first commissioned in 1913 and have served the Park ever since, showing us tourists the beauty of the place. Our “Jammer” was Lisa, a retired school principle enjoying life without bratty kids.  She was extremely knowledgeable and never once failed to answer the questions we threw her way.

imageThis is St. Mary’s lake near to where we are camped.  This morning it was more like a mirror than a lake.  The tiny spot above the shrubbery is Spirit Island, the most photographed place in the park.

imageIgnoring my finger at the top, this is a neat view of one of the barely visible old tourist boats motoring through the still waters.

imageSun Rift Gorge is the result of a fault in the Earth’s crust.  It is narrow and only a few hundred feet long, but it clearly shows how some of the park was formed.  Look closely in the water and you can see red and green stones which are a hallmark of the rocks in the park.  They are mainly white limestone, green shale, and red Grinnel formation argillites.  All the walls in the park are made with a combo of these rocks.

imageThe face of this peak is Big Chief Mountain.  We are now driving on Going To the Sun Road which climbs over 6000 feet in elevation and was built in 1933 with everything having to be hauled to the site. But this is just the beginning!

imageWe are looking at The Crown of the Continent.  This is a triple split of the Continental Divide with waters flowing to Atlantic, Pacific, and Arctic Oceans!

imageThis beautiful falls is Step Falls and cascades over layers of shale which have conveniently broken off at regular intervals.

imageOne of the few remaining glaciers on Logan’s Mountain.

imageJust look.  I’ve run out of words!

imageOne of the denizens of the Park who may have to move if we keep messing up our world.

imageHappy Campers after a great day.  But please!  Recycle,  turn off your lights when you aren’t using them and turn the water off while you are brushing your teeth!!

 

OH, CANADA, VERSE TWO

I only wanted to show you all some other beautiful places we went, but first just want to let you know the previous post had Canada’s national anthem worked into it.  After years of listening to it at hockey games, at last! A use. image These are totem poles made by the Japanese sister city to Vancouver.  The park is high above the city and overlooks parts of the bay and downtown Vancouver.  We also walked about  500 yards of the Trans-Canada Trail.  Check!  One more off the bucket list!image image image This is the Athabasca Glacier.  We visited here in 1977 and rode out to the glacier in the yellow snow machine seen below.  This time we went in this fancy new bus of which there are only 14 in the world.  Thirteen are here in Canada and the 14th is at McMurdo Base in Antarctica!  Ok, so about the glacier. When we were there before, both Mark and I remember it being much bigger.  According to the guides it is receding at the rate of about 16 ft. a year.  What are we doing to our Earth.image image This is the new Skywalk which tells of the geological, animal, and flora stories of the Icefields Highway. image image     The old yellow bus.image image These are two of the beautiful waterfalls we visited.  Johnson Canyon is on the left and Athabasca Falls on the right.       image Driving from Jasper to Banff in the rain gave us a chance to watch Mother Nature doing a strip tease.  The rain would come and go, the clouds would raise and lower, and we would be treated to snippets of mountain grandeur.  Every corner would give us a new and more beautiful vista  than the last and we would pass lakes which were like the turquoise beads in Mother Nature’s necklace image image Mt.  Rundle, near Banff  looks like someone picked up a piece of the Earth and just left the jagged edge on the other side.  Incredible! image This is a marmot growling at everyone looking down at him.  We were on top of Sulpher Mountain and saw him lurking under the balcony of the lodge.image Another view from the top of Mt.

Sulpher.

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Discovered this station at the top.  Gives one a pause when thinking about cosmic rays.  Are these space alien cosmic rays?  Are they from a ray gun somewhere in the universe?  Nope!  Cosmic rays are  from deep outer space and are remnants of powerful radiation.  Some protons and neutrons still make it through our atmosphere and apparently  it is important to keep track of  them and their impact on the Earth.

OH,CANADA

imageAlthough you’re not our home and native land, we surely understand that true patriot love in all thy sons command.

imageWith glowing hearts  like in the Olympic Cauldron, we see thee rise

imagewith new snow in July!

image The true north strong and free, like incredible Mt. Rundle.

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imageFrom far and wide  we spotted many animals such as these, plus moose, marmots, and many squirrels.  Oh, Canada, we stand on guard for thee!

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God keep this land like this fantastic panorama of Banff,

imageGlorious and free!  Oh, Canada, we stand on guard for thee.

imageOh, Canada, we stand on guard for thee!!

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EAGLES AND ORCAS AND OTTERS, OH MY!

Next stop, Anacortes, Washington.  We are located right on Fidalgo Bay.  While Mark was hooking up the bus, I was enjoying the beautiful clearness of the sky and what did I behold?  An eagle going fishing right in front of us!  It then flew into a tree where is spent the rest of the day.  The same thing happened on subsequent days with the bonus of another eagle joining the first!  I was in heaven.

imageLook closely and you can see their white heads in the top of the tall tree and on the bottom on the branch sticking out to the left.

One day we went whale watching.  Now I have to tell you about a time when we took the girls to do this on a windy day off Newport News, VA.  Everyone was sick and we saw nothing but the horizon.  This time we started out in a thick fog hoping for not much but after a couple hours we happened into three pods of orcas doing amazing orca acrobatics.  Have to say, our camera sucks so instead here is a picture of the Lego orca in Vancouver, BC.

imageLooks just like all the orcas we saw, only more lumpy.

So, in Anacortes there is this trail around the town that is called “The Tommy Thompson.”  One day I was bored while Mark was washing the motorhome and went walking the leg nearest where we were camped.  It crossed the Bay and was full of informative signs and sights.  On the way back I was reading a sign about an arch over the walkway and saw movement below me in the water.  There were two river otters like those we had at the aquarium in NC.  What a treat to see these reclusive critters in their native habitat.  Also saw a harbor seal out for a swim, arctic terns on vacation, cormorants going fishing, and glaucous-winged gulls.   It was worth it!

But, lest I forget to tell you about the trip from Port Angeles to Anacortes, let me digress for a moment.  We made most of our reservations in January and the one which worried us all was the one on which we would load the motorhomes on a ferry and sail across the Straits of Juan de Fuca.  Our rigs are not small nor light.  So we set out early and got to the ferry terminal in Port Townsend so early that the lady quickly took our $96 each, told us we had two minutes to get on board and waved us through.  After all our terrible premonitions, this turned out to be a walk in the park, or on water, maybe. Straight in, straight out, a bit tightly fit in the ferry bay.  Even the cats had fun looking out the windows.

imageNext up, Vancouver,  BC.

 

CHASING THE ELUSIVE ROOSEVELT ELK

imageYep!  That’s not it!  Bill is an avid hunter and wants so badly to see this species.  We’ve been looking for it ever since John Day.  So today we went to Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Forest because one other time when Mark and I were there we saw a whole herd of them.  But, alas!  It was not to be.  All we saw were a few Mule deer, fat and sassy, and eating all the pretty wild flowers.

imageOh, we also saw this incredible view.  In the words of  John Muir, “I hear the mountains calling and I must go.”

VICTORIA, BC

imageThe four of us took the day and went to Victoria, BC.  And what a beautiful place it is and always has been.  My first trip,was at age 2 and I remember the ferry ride, specifically the red stools in the diner which spun around and some little cement things in Thunderbird Park that were fun to lay on.  And especially I remember the fantastic totem poles.  Happily, they are still there although since our last visit those cagey Canadians have built a beautiful museum and put some of the fragile and special totems inside.  Most of these hand carved totems adorned lodges of the Salish people on Vancouver Island.  My stellar (haha) photography sure doesn’t do them credit, but hope you can at least tell what they are!

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THE RIGHT DAM THING

imageOur next destination was the Olympic Pennensula of Washington State.  I’ve visited here many times looking for Bigfoot and enjoying the Quinault rainforest, camping on the beach at Queers, and looking at the Alp-like vistas at Hurricane Ridge.  A few years back I read a book called “West of Here” about a then and now story set in make believe Port Bonita which I really think was Port Angeles where we camped.  Anyway.  The book was about the  1880’s when growth needed a project which could sustain the area.  So the Elwha Dam was planned and constructed.  The ‘now’ part of the story concerns taking the dam down so that the area could return to its natural and ancient ways.

Guess what!  The dam WAS built in the 1880’s and in 1992 congress, in a moment of clear sightedness passed a law to take the dam down to restore the salmon spawning areas of the Elwha River.  We were camped on it’s banks and after a 10 minute hike saw history in the making!

The restoration project began in 2011 and was finished in 2013.  I downloaded some before and after pictures and have added some of my own. Cannot tell you what it felt like to visit a place with such historic value.

The picture at the top is of the dam being deconstructed.  It was built at a point where the river makes a 90 degree left-hand turn which doesn’t show up in this picture.  The lake formed in front of it.

image This is what is left of the dam now.  What looks like cement is actually material on top of the hill to prevent erosion.  This is the part of the dam which shows up as white on the top picture.

imageThis is the empty lake bed of today.

imageHere is the turn where the dam used to be.  The river just cascades through this gap on it’s way to the Straits of Juan de Fuca.

imageThe river from above.  The cloth covered part is on the lower right.  I have always contended that man is a very poor conservator of our planet, but here is a case where we actually did the right dam thing!!

 

 

RING OF FIRE

imageWorst welcome sign ever, but what a state!  We camped in a classic KOA nestled between the freeway and a train track.  The whistles blew day and night but, oh well!

imageThirty four years ago we were in Portland for a surprise baby shower friends had for us.  On Sunday, May 18th we got up and looked out the window of our friend’s house and saw an incredible mushroom cloud over Mt. t. Helens.  We saw first hand here the power and scariness of Mother Nature.  The mountain was shortened by about a third and the ash river which ran down the Toutle River from the summit destroyed everything in it’s path.  This was BIG news on TV and radio for weeks, especially the next weekend when she erupted again and they shoveled the ash off the streets with snow plows.  Way on the left side you can see imageMt. Adams which is only about 35 miles from St. Helens.

imageNext up was Mt. Rainier.  Here is another perfect jewel in the infamous Ring of Fire which surrounds the Pacific Rim.  From the talks and movies we have watched in all these parks any of these volcanoes has the potential to erupt any time and soon.  But til they do we will enjoy seeing them in all their splendor and rugged beauty.

imageAs in all these parks, Mr. Rainier has an old lodge which has been preserved from the time it was built.  Here at the Mt. Rainier Lodge we find the first purpose built building to turn the tourist eye toward scenes of beauty.  All the inside is done with local logs and is hand crafted.  There are dozens of lampshades in the rafter each having a different native flower found on the park.  Here is The Piano Man entertaining us at lunchtime.

imageBack to fantasy land.  Mark loves flying and has always wanted to be a pilot.  Here he got a sort of chance at the Forest Learning Center back at Mt. St. Helens!

imageMaybe because they have so much native material near to hand, the people of the Northwest are avid woodcarvers.  We were walking through our campground on the Cowlitz River and discovered this fox hiding in a hollow tree!  We have seen bears, eagles, and other animals hiding here and there where we’ve gone.

 

The new picture at the side of the blog is of  us in the middle of the Cowlitz River.  The empty bed shows how huge the river gets during runoff in the spring.  Stay tuned!  All the poor wifi will not keep me from continuing to post our adventures!

ON THE TRAIL OF LEWIS AND CLARK AND THE GOONIES

imageThe Oregon beaches are the most beautiful we’ve ever visited.  So, we packed up and went to Cannon Beach with Jeff and Betsy and Bill and Eileen.  Above you may recognize Haystack Rock which featured in the opening scenes of The GOONIES, one of our favorite movies from when the girls were small.

imageNot  what we had for lunch exactly, but we did see some sea creatures.  To those of you intent upon picking these things up, remember SEA creatures.  They don’t do well out of water, as we learned from years volunteering at the NC Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores.

imageAlso at the Oregon coast in 1806, Lewis and Clark spent their final westward winter.  They chose this area because of the plentiful game and source of firewood and salt with which to cure the meat they hunted.  They were stocking up for the long return journey so didn’t enjoy the beach as much as we did.

imageHere is Mark with an old friend from Mandan.  For years we have had this conversation about how her name is pronounced.  In ND they say Sakakawea but we all learned Sakajawea.  The ranger tried to tell us  that even her original tribe of Shoshone didn’t have a “J” sound in their language.  I think it was actually a “G” sound because how could anything we learned in the third grade be wrong!

image And our final stop was at the Maritime and River Museum in Astoria.  This is a fantastic place which chronicles what it takes to get ships in and out of the Columbia River over “the bar” where the river meets the ocean.   Imagine a huge river meeting the turbulent ocean and you kind of have a picture of what the river pilots must deal with.  This display was a diarama  of  a rescue in this area.  It was an actual Coast Guard boat suspended inside the museum.  My bad pictures do not even give you the perspective needed to see how incredible it is.

So, the reason these posts have been sporadic is because of bad wifi.  We’ve been in the mountains for a long time.  Don’t leave me hanging, please continue to join us on our amazing voyage!

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WHY WE LOVE OREGON

imageAfter leaving Bend, we traveled to John Day Fossil Beds which is the site of the largest mammalian collection of fossils in the world.  It is special because of the stratification and the relative ease  scientists can date the land and the fossils.  Sure wish I’d paid more attention in geology and anthropology.

 

imageNext we went to one of our all-time favs, Mt Hood.  Again we ran into snow which is good for skiers.  Had a wonderful dinner at the Cascade dining room in Timberline Lodge.  Such good memories!

then down the mountain we went to Portland which has A great tag line now, “Keep Portlland Weird.”   Works for me.  Spent quality time with my brother, Jeff, SIL, Betsy, and Nephews Gabe and Zach.

imageFrom Portland we visited the spectacular Columbia Gorge and saw Hood River, my old friend Dawn, and Multnomah Falls.

imageWe also looked at real estate because we do think we will return to Portland when our travels are over.  So remember!

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